How to plan a wildlife-focused weekend: spotting seabirds, otters and seals around durness

I plan almost every visit to Durness with a single aim: maximise the time I spend watching and photographing wildlife without disturbing it. A weekend might sound short, but with a focused plan you can see spectacular seabird colonies, playful seals and, if you’re lucky and patient, otters moving along the shore at dusk. Below I share the practical route, timing, gear and etiquette I use for wildlife-focused weekends around Durness—straight from field notes and many early mornings on the cliffs.

When to go

Timing makes a big difference. For seabirds, the breeding season from late April to early August is peak: puffins, guillemots, razorbills and kittiwakes are obvious and plentiful then. Seals are around year-round but are especially visible hauling out on beaches in late summer and autumn. Otters are most often seen at dawn or dusk all year, although autumn and winter can be good as they forage more openly.

Weather in the far north is changeable. I prefer spring and early summer for long daylight hours and nesting seabirds, but late summer gives calmer seas and better chances for inshore dolphins and basking rays. If you’re flexible, check tides and wind direction before you set off—calmer seas and offshore winds make seabird and seal-spotting easier from the cliffs and beach headlands.

How I structure a wildlife-focused weekend

My typical two-day plan balances time on cliffs, on beaches and a short boat trip or sea-watching session if conditions allow. Here’s the outline I use:

Day	Morning	Afternoon	Evening
Day 1 (Arrive)	Sea-watch from Sango Bay or Durness beach	Walk to Cape Wrath viewpoint / Balnakeil Beach exploration	Dusk otter-watch at the estuary or small coves
Day 2	Cliff walk to observe seabird colonies (e.g. Clachtoll or local sea stacks)	Boat trip or kayak (if available) / seal haul-out beach visit	Night sky and listening for owls or nocturnal activity

Where I go and why

Here are the spots I visit most often and what I expect to find there.

Balnakeil Beach and the estuary: wide sand, shallow waters and islands of rock—great for seals and waders. The estuary at dusk is one of my favourite places to try for otter sightings when the tide is incoming.

Sango Bay and reef headlands: excellent for sea-watching and scanning for gannets, fulmars and sometimes passing cetaceans. I’ll set up with a scope and a thermos and watch the sea for long periods here.

Coastal cliffs north of Durness: small nesting ledges and stacks host puffins and guillemots in season. I stick to paths and keep my distance because cliffs are both fragile and dangerous.

Hidden coves like Sweetheart Bay and smaller beaches: these quieter places are where I’ve had my best otter encounters—patient, motionless and low to the ground is the approach I use.

Gear I always bring

Good kit increases your chances and keeps wildlife safe. I don’t overpack for a weekend, but I bring thoughtful, quality pieces:

Optics: a compact spotting scope (I use a small Swarovski or Kowa when I need range) plus binoculars (8x42 is my go-to). A tripod makes long watches comfortable.

Camera: a DSLR or mirrorless with a telephoto lens (100–400mm or 150–600mm). I use a Canon R-series body and a 100–400mm for flexibility; I also carry a small wide-angle for landscapes and habitat shots.

Clothing: layers, a waterproof shell (Rab, Patagonia or similar), warm mid-layer, and good walking boots. Also bring a hat and gloves even in summer—the wind off the Atlantic bites.

Navigation & safety: OS maps or an Ordnance Survey app, a compass, a headtorch, and a basic first-aid kit. I also bring a charged phone, power bank, and a little emergency bivvy when I go to more remote cliffs.

Accessories: field guide (or Bird ID apps like Merlin), a notebook, high-energy snacks, and a small sit-mat so you can wait low and comfortable without disturbing vegetation.

Ethics and how I behave in the field

I’m serious about leaving no trace and about keeping animals safe. A single careless approach can cause nesting birds to abandon eggs or put an otter under stress. My ground rules:

Keep your distance: use optics rather than walking closer. Puffins and colonies are especially sensitive—stay off the top of cliffs near nests and don’t block flight lines.

Respect tides and breeding seasons: avoid walking on seal haul-out rocks during pupping season (usually late spring and early summer). Check seasonal notices from local rangers or the Scottish Wildlife Trust.

Be quiet and patient: soft voices, slow movements and long waits pay off. I often sit downwind and let the animals get used to my presence.

Do not feed wildlife: human food is bad for animals, and feeding changes behaviour in dangerous ways.

Best practices for otter-spotting

Otters are shy. My best sightings come when I follow the tide and stay hidden.

Arrive before dawn or stay after dusk near estuaries—otters are crepuscular.

Use low, concealed positions behind dunes or rocks; don’t stand above the shoreline where you silhouette yourself.

Watch for telltale signs: spraint (droppings) on rocks, patches of disturbed kelp and tracks in soft sand.

If an otter approaches or moves off, back away slowly. Your presence may be disrupting foraging and raising stress levels.

Seals and seabird colonies—what to expect

Seals are often obvious on beaches and rocks. Grey seals are common and will haul out to rest and moult. I keep at least 50–100 metres distance from hauled-out seals—mothers with pups can react aggressively.

For seabirds, patience and binoculars are everything. Puffins are a crowd-pleaser: look for them bobbing offshore or flying to small burrows on grassy cliff tops. Guillemots and razorbills crowd narrow ledges; watch for rapid flushes if a predator like a great skua passes overhead.

Transport, accommodation and local tips

Durness is remote—plan your logistics. I usually drive up from Inverness (about 3.5–4 hours) and leave extra time for slow sections and stops. Public transport exists but is sparse; if you rely on buses, check timetables carefully.

Staying local: I favour family-run B&Bs and crofter cottages—small places that know the local rhythms. I list trusted options and seasonal openings on my site, Hillside Durness Co (https://www.hillside-durness.co.uk).

Booking tours: small boat operators or local kayakers sometimes run wildlife-focused trips. When I want a closer marine perspective without disturbing colonies from the cliffs, I book a licensed operator who follows a responsible wildlife code.

Food & supplies: stock up in Durness village for snacks, fuel and basic supplies—there aren’t many shops out on the headlands.

Quick checklist before you leave

Check tide times and wind direction.

Charge phone, camera batteries and pack a power bank.

Download offline maps or print OS maps and note routes.

Tell someone your plans and expected return time.

Pack binoculars, camera, sit-mat, and thermos with a hot drink.

If you’d like a customised two-day route based on the time of year you’re visiting, tell me your arrival time and whether you prefer walking, sea trips or a mix—I’ll sketch a plan with exact spots and timing that fits your pace. I love helping people craft short trips that still feel wild and full of encounters.